Sunday, September 16, 2012

Surfing the Waves!

I'm out sailing on the sea tonight about a half mile from shore. The boat is surfing the waves as I come back in toward land. The feeling is incredible - how to explain it?! The following waves behind the boat rise slowly and gain size as they approach. The wave lifts the boat up and we are atop them. As its power surges below the boat, suddenly white water shoots out from under the bow and we are surfing the wave! My hand is on the tiller and the boat is very reactive to the slightest move.

The wind has shifted to the south and now I can balance the boat and sails on a close reach. So I head off to the bow to get a feeling for the waves up there. The waves seem bigger up here - though in comparison to real waves in a gale, they are small. Still, I feel amazed. Suddenly the wave overcomes the self steering and the boat begins to turn fast - all in the wrong direction! The boat turns broadside to the waves and now if I were in storm size waves, I would be in serious trouble! But in actuality, everything will be okay. Jumping down into the cockpit from the cabin top, I steer the boat out of danger and back on course.

Sunset is incredible - or should I say afterglow. The whole horizon above the blue ocean is full on orange silhouetted by the dark Malibu mountains in the distance. What a night!

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